In the distance thunder rumbled ominously. At first this didn’t dissuade me from attempting to follow the ancient walls some more. But the thunder was persistent and as I looked back it was clear a storm was on it’s way. Abandoning my plan I hurried though an old gate back into the old city. As I made my way deep into the centre the sky darkened and stall owners on the side on the road started packing up. Soon people became frenetic as the sky took on an unusual yellow tinged glow and the wind picked up whipping fine particles of sand into my eyes. I was running now to the safe haven of the hostel. Within a few minutes of arriving the downpour began. The storm was here but I was thankfully safe and dry in my hostel in Pingyao.

Pingyao has World Heritage listing as it’s China’s best preserved walled ancient city. Walls with 72 towers and which circle for 6.2km.

Within the walls the old town is full of lovely grey stone and timber buildings. Red lanterns and other gorgeously detailed lanterns are strung everywhere.

Museums set in pretty courtyards are dotted though out the streets But despite how charming and wonderful Pingyao is it is also extremely touristy and at times it reminded me of a theme park with motorised buggies whizzing tourists around.

However, I found it was easy to escape by slipping down a quiet street or alley. Here I found the everyday Pingyao. Buildings were a bit run down, unkempt and charmingly rustic. Behind large old wooden doors people lived their day to day lives. People who were genuinely happy to see you and say ‘nihao’ (hello). Many a grandfather attempted to convince their shy grand-kids to pose and smile for photos. I loved wandering around the backstreets and exploring Pingyao.

About an hour or so out of Pingyao and high in the mountains a road clings to the side of the cliff winding its way past ‘scenic spot’ after ‘scenic spot’. The ‘scenic spots’ as called by the announcements on the tourist bus are temples and relic sites on the edge of Mian Shan. A spectacular setting and I’m surprised this isn’t in Lonely Planet.

I went as a day trip from the hostel from Pingyao and after visiting a few sites the group I was with decided to stop at Qixian Valley. A narrow valley/gorge with stony cliffs either side you climb ten hanging bridges and sky ladders to reach the top. Sky ladders? A crazy haphazard collection of steep staircases made from chunks of wood and chains together with small metal steps fixed into the forge wall. Using lengths of metal chain you pull yourself higher and higher. Young and old were attempting the climb and people were climbing in both directions and as a result there were many precarious situations.

Back in Pingayo and it was time for dinner. Throughout the main streets of Pingyao barbecues start setting up at dusk. This was my favourite way to eat out in Pingyao, not only was it delicious but I could see what being cooked (always good here in China!).

 

Practical information

I stayed at Pingyao Harmony Guesthouse on West Street (NB: Harmony has two locations). Set in a lovely courtyard, the owner really tries to help as best as possible but is little disorganised.

Pingyao is even easier to get to now with fast trains from Beijing (4hrs) and Xian (3hrs) stopping at the new railway station which opened early July 2014. The new station is approx 15kms from the old centre of Pingyao.

Fast train Beijing to Pingyao = 183RMB

Fast train Pingyao to Xian North = 150RMB

Mian Shan: Transport = 90RMB / Entrance fee = 110 RMB plus 50RMB for the tourist bus between scenic spots