Author Archives: Carly

Chasing Visas in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Organising, coordinating and actually getting visas is one the most problematic, time-consuming and frustrating things about traveling in Central Asia. My visa dramas started in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. From the tranquil valley of Tash Rabat I headed to Bishkek to start organising my visas for the rest of my Central Asian travels. It

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Across the Mountains: Travelling the Torugart Pass From China to Kyrgyzstan

The  Torugart Pass is the classic Silk Road route from infamous Kashgar in far western China into Kyrgyzstan. The pass is notoriously difficult as it is high in the Tian Shan mountains (3,752m) and sometimes snow closes the road. This border is also considered a special crossing. Meaning it has extra security needs and as a

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Of Grapes and Ruins: Turpan (12 August 2014 – 14 August 2014)

Since leaving Xian I’d travelled predominantly by night train. This was definitely convenient but by the time I reached Turpan in Xinjiang, over 2,300 kms from Xian, I felt I had no concept of the distance I’d travelled as I’d slept through it! Despite that it was absolutely clear I’d travelled a long way since

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Sand Dunes and Caves of Treasure on the Silk Road: Dunhuang (9 August 2014 – 11 August 2014)

I looked out at the scene in front of me, speechless. Yes, the sand dunes were impressive but that wasn’t what had left me speechless. Instead it was all of the Chinese tourists walking around in bright orange plastic covers to protect their shoes from sand, and it was the long line of hundreds of

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The First and Greatest Pass Under Heaven: Jiayuguan (7 August – 9 August 2014)

Heading further west across China stands the ‘First and Greatest Pass Under Heaven’ set on a stony plain between two mountain ranges . A great fort which in the past marked the westernmost limits of civilisation of imperial China. Beyond the fort were tribes who harassed the Chinese empire as well as the forbidding Taklamakan

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