My brief journey in East Africa had it all! From tracking gorillas on the slopes of Rwanda’s Volcano National Park, to heading out on safari through the infamous Serengeti National Park and Ngoronogoro Crater, to exploring enchanting Stone Town and the beautiful beaches of Zanzibar.

It was the perfect introduction to Africa.

Why East Africa?

When I started planning to travel to Africa top of my wish list was to the see the critically endangered gorillas. That narrowed down my choice to the three African countries where gorillas can be found – Rwanda, Uganda, and Congo.

I also really wanted to travel some of the time solo and independently as this is my usual way to travel  – I’m not a tour kinda gal! After a bit of research I decided that travelling in Rwanda as a solo female seemed safe and possible. So Rwanda was decided on!

For years I had also longed to visit Zanzibar. For me the name oozes exotic and it’s fascinating history and beautiful beaches were hard to resist. Zanzibar was therefore a must.

And as it was my first trip to Africa I also wanted to go on safari . In between Rwanda and Zanzibar is Tanzania’s famous Serengeti and Ngorogogo Crater. Safari in Tanzania therefore made a lot of sense.

So my brief journey in East Africa took shape.

Rwanda

I started my brief journey in East Africa in Rwanda.  After three flights from Sydney (via Doha and Entebbe, Uganda) I finally reached Kigali, the capital of Rwanda.

The city of Kigali stretches over hill after hill after hill with the small centre focused at the top of one of those hills.

While researching my trip I learnt of a women co-operative which ran walking tours in the oldest part of Kigali, Nyamirambo Women’s Center. I loved the idea of seeing  the city through the eyes of a local and that the profits were used to pay seamstresses, a local library and literacy classes as well as workshops on women’s rights. And it included lunch at a local women’s home!

Like most travellers to Rwanda I was acutely aware of the genocide that took place here in 1994. In just 100 days around 800,000 people were slaughtered in Rwanda by ethnic Hutu extremists. They were targeting members of the minority Tutsi community, as well as their political opponents irrespective of their ethnic origin.

I feel it is important to remember these horrific events in the hope that one day they will not be repeated. It was therefore important to me to spend time at the Kigali Memorial Centre. The Kigali Memorial Centre is outstanding but intense so if you plan to visit be prepared to be confronted.

From Kigali I travelled to Gisenyi on Lake Kivu by local bus (more like a mini-van). For most of the journey I was the only white person on the bus.

As the bus wound its way over and around hill after hill after hill the smell of eucalyptus drifted through the open window, reminding of home. On the side of the road was a constant progression of locals walking or cycling carrying all manner of things, wood, bamboo, vegetables in huge sacks, water in yellow plastic tanks.

A fascinating snapshot of local life which I absolutely loved.

When I arrived I discovered Gisneyi was a bustling town with lots of colour and more interesting people watching.

I took a moto straight out to Rubona Peninsula. This peninsula juts out into Lake Kivu and provides great views out over the lake and it’s shores. The perfect place for a long lunch to soak up the beautiful scene.

Back in town many locals were hanging out, or exercising by the lakeside beach. Many of the locals were also keen to practice their English or generally chat with me when I was down by the beach.

The next day I headed to Musanze. Musanze is the third largest town in Rwanda and is one of the most convenient bases to track gorillas.

I was keen to see more of the local life and culture, and what better place to see both then the local market! As I walked in it seemed very few tourists ventured into this bustling scene. The locals were bemused and more often than not didn’t want their photos taken. But occasionally they did.

On my final day in Rwanda I woke early to see Rwanda’s standout highlight – the mountain gorillas! Tracking the gorillas in Rwanda was simply magical and easily one of the all-time highlights of all my travels.

 Travelling in Rwanda as a solo female was surprisingly easy.

The country is small enough to make the bus trips relatively short and mini-buses leave so regularly I would simply arrive at a bus station and leave nearly immediately.

However, don’t be surprised if you are the only tourist on the bus as the majority of tourists travel in tours or with drivers with the focus mainly on seeing the gorillas only.

Rwanda to Arusha, Tanzania

From Rwanda I had to make my way to Arusha in Tanzania, the gateway to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.

There were no direct flights. So I decided to take a flight from Kigali to Nairobi and then a bus to Arusha in the hope of seeing a little bit more of Africa. I have to confess the bus trip was not the most interesting and it was long. But I was still glad to have done it rather than just flying from destination to destination.

I travelled with Riverside Shuttle Bus and booked online ahead of time. I had no issues and would have no problem recommending them.

When I arrived in Arusha I stayed at Outpost Lodge which is the hotel my safari with G Adventures was departing from.

Serengeti National Park

I’m going to be absolutely honest, and it might be slightly controversial but, going on safari was never high on my list of travel must do’s.

But safari in the Serengeti completely changed my mind!

Why?

Because it really was like being in the middle of a David Attenborough documentary! Seriously. I lost count of how many lions we saw over the three days we were on safari.

There were plenty of zebra, giraffes and elephants.

I was also fortunate enough to see the rare and endangered rhino.

But the standout for me was seeing six leopards. Yes SIX leopards!!  A leopard was what I most wanted to see as I  think they’re incredible beautiful. They’re also extremely difficult to spot. Seeing six – totally lucky!!

Oh and the sunrises and sunsets over the African land were simply beyond amazing.

If you want to see a crazy number of photos from my time on the Serengeti check out my photo journey through the Serengeti here.

Ngorongoro Crater

After three days in the Serengeti my safari then headed to the Ngorongoro Crater. This is a truly unique place. One of the largest unbroken calderas in the world which spans 19km where wildlife abounds.

Herds of wilderbeest greeted us as we entered the crater and the steep walls of the crater were completely opposite to the vast savannah of the Serengeti.

The other contrast was large parts of the Ngorongoro Crater were quite green. Like this waterhole filled with hippos.

We also got up close and personal with so many zebras.

Masai Village – Clean Stove Project

In Tanzania, 95% of people rely on cooking with wood and coal. Women and girls spend hours walking to collect wood every day (making them vulnerable to assault and unable to use their time to go to school). Indoor smoke from open-fire stoves causes cancer, emphysema, pneumonia, blindness, and burns.

My safari operator, G Adventures, support the initiative Clean Stove Project to help combat these issues. It was quite extraordinary being invited into a traditional Maasai village and even more so to see inside their homes.

It’s so dark inside these huts and this is where they cook. It was easy to see how dangerous this could be and the smoke must be terrible.

After safari I flew from Arusha to Zanzibar on this little plane!

Stone Town, Zanzibar

Exploring Stone Town on Zanzibar was an absolute highlight of my recent travels in East Africa. I fell hard for its fascinating maze of alleyways, its grand old buildings crumbling into decay, it’s majestic doors, it’s lively markets and its cheeky children.

Getting lost amongst the alleyways is one of the great pleasures of exploring Stone Town. Here charming old balconies overhang and little details of an old light and door handles enchant.

Exploring Stone Town I often came across local children running and playing, and occasionally posing for a photo or two.

I loved the exuberance of the children and their cheeky manner.

My favourite place to head in the evenings was Forodhani Gardens. Here stalls set up selling mountains of fresh seafood to be barbecued or you could try a Zanzibar pizza. Not like the pizza you know from home but still absolutely delicious!!

Beaches of Zanzibar

After spending the last two and a bit weeks travelling around Rwanda, being on safari in the Serengeti and Ngoronogoro Crater and exploring Stone Town it was time to relax. And what better place than the stunning beaches of Zanzibar.

The water was the most intense turquoise and for me it was exactly what dreams were made of.

I treated myself to the beautiful Warere Beach Hotel in a deluxe room with balcony and sea views. This place is beyond! and I totally loved my bungalow. Who wouldn’t with views like this and when you could lie in bed and watch the sunrise over the ocean.

One of the days I decided to explore the island more and hired a taxi driver. I loved seeing what you could say is the real side if the island, away from the hotels, resorts and beaches.

I also found where I would stay on my next visit – Paje!  A wide white beach contrasting against a green sea where kite-surfers play. The chilled out vibe was exactly my type of scene. One day I will return!

For lunch  I was lucky enough to grab a table at what can only be described as one of the coolest, most unusual and beautiful lunch locations I’ve ever been to. This is The Rock!

Even though I have travelled to many places which people consider unsafe like Iran and Uzbekistan I was still pretty nervous about travelling to Africa. But as you can see from my brief journey in east Africa I had nothing to worry about.

In fact my brief journey through East Africa blew me away!

The animals and landscapes were insane, and the people curious and friendly.

I am very much looking forward to exploring more of Africa in the future and hope this post has inspired you to visit this incredible part of the world. Remember – so often places are not at all how they are portrayed in the media!

Practical Information

In Kigali I stayed at Step Town Motel where John and Emmanuel went out of their way to help me find my way and organise drivers to the bus station, etc. The hotel also had lovely views from their patio over the hills of Kigali.

In Gisneyi I stayed at Discover Rwanda which had a fantastic location just opposite the beach front.

In Musanze I stayed at Amahoro Guest House. It was central, very simple and nearly empty when I stayed but Honest, who ran the guesthouse, was another who went out of his way to answer my questions and help me change money, etc.

Also, a special mention of Isange BF Restaurant in Musanze. The most delicious chicken dish of my Africa travels!

For my safari through the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater I chose G Adventures. I particularly liked they did not charge a single supplement like so many tour operators. The specific details of my safari can be found here.

In Stone Town I stayed at Dhow Palace Hotel. Once the home of a rich merchant it is a beautiful and charming building, especially around the pool with the balconies and coloured glass windows above. The views from the rooftop are fantastic. It is also just located off one of the main streets.

For my beach stay I chose Warere Beach Hotel. Relatively close to Nungwi but not in the thick of it so it’s very quiet. It’s a beautiful property with stunning views.